Dhaulagiri ExpeditionDhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri Expedition (8167 m) - 40 Days

Key Information
  • Arrival City


Mt. Dhaulagiri is the 7th highest peak in the world with an elevation of 8,167 meters. Situated in western Nepal, the massif is bounded on north and southwest by tributaries of Bheri River and Myagdi Khola from the southeast. Mt. Dhaulagiri occupies an area of about 120 km through the western face of Kaligandaki River towards the Bheri River. The name of Dhaulagiri came from the Sanskrit translate into “Dhavala” “Giri” means “White Mountain”.

Dhaulagiri is one of the classical and traditional mountains of Nepal. Dhaulagiri is the first 8000-meter peak to attempt by the French in 1950, who abandoned their bid in favor of Annapurna I. But, in May 1960 it was successfully ascended by Kurt Diemburger along with Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, Sherpa Nawang Dorje, and Nima Dorje of Nepal.

Dhaulagiri Expedition is considered an interesting peak among other 8000 meter peaks. There are more than 5 different routes established with variations to reach the summit. The long ridges and glaciers offer feasible approaches and we will climb through the standard route.

Best Time for Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri Expedition in Spring Season

With longer and pleasant days, spring in Nepal is the best month for Makalu Expedition. With blooming flowers welcoming you and fields expanding a wide variety of colors, the months between March and May are the most excellent months for witnessing the beauty of Makalu. The rain will be usually less during these months, but you may experience quite a good amount of rainfall towards the end of May.


This is the season when Nepal experiences a large number of climbers. To meet like-minded adventurers and experience the best of everything, spring is the best to visit Nepal.


Climbing Strategy for Dhaulagiri Expedition

The normal Makalu Expedition route to the peak is from the Northeast Ridgeside and it is also the original route used in 1960. Usually, we will set 3 camps for climbing the Dhaulagiri. Makalu expedition begins with the steeply climb from the flat glacier above Base Camp, then skirt below the wall. Then the route will open out into a wide glacier that leads us onto broad north col where will set up our Camp I (5,750m/18,865ft.).


On the way to Camp II (6,500m/21,325ft.), we follow broad snow slopes that lead to the sharp mountain ridge. Here climbing Sherpa will guide you if you do not have technical climbing experiences. Camp III will be at the altitude of (7,400m/24,278 ft.). Heading towards Camp III you will witness some ups and downs. We have to climb towards the East Ridge, where strong wind may be another challenging part. Reaching Camp III is the most difficult part of the Makalu Expedition.


Summit day to Makalu will start in the depth of night and if weather is favorable then it will take about 7 to 10 hours. Climbing time also depends upon your pace, stamina, and courage of the climbers. We will ascend through a sharp ridge above camp and rise towards rock and snow shelves and enter a large snowfield until we tackle a 45-degree gully, which leads us to the SUMMIT.



    • Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) is the 7th highest mountain in the world.
    • Breathtaking view of Dhaulagiri Range, Churen Himal, Gurja Himal with several snow-capped chains of mountains.
    • Nearly completely barren, off-the-beaten-path trail.
    • Challenge yourself across rugged terrain where very few have trekked before.
    • Experience the rich culture and unique lifestyle of Magar and Thakali peoples.

    Good to Know

    Gears for Dhaulagiri Expedition

    Every expedition requires certain preparation of gears and types of equipment for the journey to make your trip more comfortable. The following belongings are recommended that should be brought, although we concede that our clients have their own decision for the clothing. To know what to expect in the Dhaulagiri Expedition, we have prepared some useful gear during the trek.

    Body Wear

    • Waterproof shell jacket
    • Waterproof shell pants
    • Expedition down jacket and pants
    • Base Camp down jacket
    • Lightweight insulated pants (Optional)
    • Mid-weight insulated jacket
    • Softshell climbing pants
    • Lightweight fleece top and pants
    • Wind shirt (Optional)
    • Trekking/glacier shirt
    • Base layer tops and leggings
    • Underwear 5-6 pairs
    • Trekking clothes
    • Casual wear

    Head Wear

    • Warm hat
    • Sun hat
    • Balaclava (Optional)
    • Bandana and/or Buff
    • Neoprene face mask (Optional)
    • Neck Gaiter or Fleece Buff (Optional)
    • Sunglasses x 2 pairs
    • Ski goggles

    Hand Wear

    • Liner gloves x 2 pairs
    • Fleece gloves x 2 pairs
    • Mountaineering gloves with removable liners
    • Expedition mitts

    Foot Wear

    • Socks x 6 pairs
    • Lightweight shoes/sandals
    • Trekking boots
    • 8000m mountaineering boots
    • Snow gaiters
    • Down bivvy boots
    • Camp boots (Optional)
    • Foot-warming system (Optional)

    Packs & Bags

    • Small duffel bag (30-40 liters)
    • Large duffel bags ( 95-132 liters)
    • Daypack (30-45 liters)
    • Mountaineering pack (55-65 liters)

    Camping Gear

    • Down sleeping bags (-20C/-4F and -40C/-40F)
    • Foam sleeping mat
    • Inflatable sleeping mat
    • Water bottles
    • Cup, bowl, spoon
    • Small thermos flask (Optional)


    • Headlamps x 2 and spare lithium batteries
    • First aid kit and medication plus spare
    • Personal toiletries
    • Sunblock and lip balm
    • Moist wipes
    • Personal entertainment
    • Pocket knife/Leatherman/tool kit
    • Cigarette lighter
    • Camping towel
    • Camera and memory cards (Optional)
    • Earplugs (optional)
    • Chemical hand and toe warmers (Optional)
    • Stuff sacks and large plastic bags
    • Solar panel and battery pack (Optional)
    • USB flash drive
    • Steripen (Optional)
    • Collapsible trekking poles

    Climbing Equipment

    • Ice axe
    • Crampons
    • Climbing helmet
    • Climbing harness
    • Belay/rappel device
    • Locking carabiners x 3
    • Non-locking carabiners x 3
    • Mechanical ascenders x 1
    • 4m of 8mm rope or 16mm tape for jumar ropes
    • Long prusik x 1 (6mm prusik cord)
    • Avalanche transceiver

    Travel Gear

    • Airline tickets (confirmation and itinerary)
    • Nepal Visa form (can be taken from Kathmandu Airport)
    • Travel insurance policy documents
    • Valid passport
    • Copy of passport (first page only)
    • Passport size photos