Manaslu ExpeditionManaslu Expedition

Manaslu Expedition (8163m) - 44 Days

Key Information
  • Arrival City

    Mt. Manaslu is the eighth highest mountain in the world with an elevation of 8,156m. This mountain is popular for extreme mountaineering climbers. It is located in the Mansiri Himal, west-central parts of Nepal. Manaslu came from the Sanskrit word “Manasa” which means “Mountain of Spirit”. It was the first ascent by a Japanese expedition on May 9 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu.

    Manaslu lies at the end of isolated Himalayan valleys in the central-western Nepal Himalaya’s Kali Gandaki valley 40 miles east of Annapurna. To summit the Manaslu, there are six established routes, of which the south face is the toughest.

    Best Time for Manaslu Expedition

    If you are climbing to the base camp then there will be not so big a problem about which time is best to visit Manaslu. But if you are thinking of scrambling the trial towards Makalu Expedition, then it becomes a must to ascent during the best trekking season which is either spring or autumn.

    Spring Season

    Spring is the vital climbing season for the Manaslu Expedition Nepal. In spring the climate is warm and views are clear. The spring season varies from March to May for three months. The chances of rain or cloud are less in relation to other times. The spring season is the most suitable for climbing because of warm weather, not so much snow deposited. The wind velocity might be challenging for this season but taking into consideration all kinds of factors, spring is the best climbing time for the Himalayas of Nepal.

    Autumn Season

    The autumn season starts from late September to November. It is the second-best time for a climbing adventure in Nepal. The beautiful rich green hills at the lower part and the crystal clear Himalayas are the major features of this season. Autumn is the best time for enjoying views of clear nature and a suitable time for climbing the mountains.

    There are ample records of successful ascending to Makalu in the autumn season. The best weather, proper climbing routes, and less dangerous snow slides in the autumn give more possibilities of a successful summit over Makalu.

    Winter and monsoon is surely not the companion you want during the Manaslu expedition. These seasons will create trouble for the hikers adding to the difficulty level. Winter certainly has the worst climate with the temperature dropping low as -15 Degree Celsius.

    It will be hard to keep the mind stable in such circumstances which is the cause many trekkers give up on the expedition. Likewise, the monsoon causes heavy rainfall which causes the trail to be slippery. The moving clouds with rain also block the views which makes hiking useless.

    Climbing Strategy for Manaslu Expedition

    We start our Manaslu Expedition following the Dudh Gandaki Valley trial up to Samagaon. From Samagaon we will then trek to Manaslu Base Camp standing at an altitude of 4,750 m. From Manaslu Base Camp we will follow the North Ridge Route as Manaslu Expedition Route.

    From Base Camp to Camp I (5700m/18,700ft) you will see mixed terrain with few crevasses and a short ice section. It will take about 4 to 6 hours to reach Camp I. We set out Camp I at the bottom of the North Peak right above the glacier.

    The climbing from Camp I to Camp II (6400m/21,000ft) is considered the technical crux with about 40-degree snow slopes and a brief steep ice section. Camp II will be above the icefall on the snowy terrace and there can be a lot of snow accumulation. It takes about 3 to 4 hours to reach the camp depending upon your physical fitness and weather.

    The climb from Camp II to Camp III (6800m/22,310ft) is short and only takes around 3 hours. Today there may be the threat of high, cold winds. Reaching Camp III may be the easiest part of the expedition because there is less threat in the route.

    Camp III to Camp IV (7450m/24,445ft) is a long day and a physical climb with a few steep sections at extreme altitudes. While stepping toward Camp IV, we have to ascent for 5 to 7 hours depending upon the physical condition and weather. You will have to climb a 50 to 55-degree slope and this section is an adventurous section.

    Finally, summit day (8,156m/26,759ft) will be about 7 to 9 hours of ascent if all goes well.

    Manaslu Expedition Difficulty

    Before deciding to ascend Mount Manaslu, make sure to meet the requirements. You need to be in very good physical condition, healthy, fit, good stamina, and courageous. Manaslu Expedition is more technical and challenging as this is a stiffer summit than other mountains. Climbers are required to have excellent physical and mental capacity, a great level of climbing ability, and altitude adeptness at high altitudes. A single trek or ascent will be at least 7 to 8 hours a day.

    Be ready for icy and rocky terrain rugged trials. High altitude atmosphere conditions should be taken seriously while doing Manaslu Expedition. Technical expedition equipment is crucial in the expedition. Many adventurers value Manaslu as preparation for a more technically challenging ascent, like Everest.


      • Mt. Manaslu (8,156 m/26,758 ft.) is the 8th highest mountain in the world.
      • The rugged paths with isolated and overcrowdedness of mainstream trails.
      • Get an impressive picture of peaks in the world like Manaslu, Annapurna II, Himlung Himal, and many more.
      • Observe the rich Tibetan and mountain people culture in the region.
      • Follow the Budi Gandaki River Gorge during the trek.

      Good to Know

      Gears for Manaslu Expedition

      Every expedition requires a specific arrangement of gears and types of equipment for the journey to make your journey easier. The following gears are recommended and should be brought, although we admit that our clients have their own choice. To know what to expect in the Manaslu Expedition, we have provided some useful gear during the trek.

      Body Wear

      • Waterproof shell jacket
      • Waterproof shell pants
      • Expedition down jacket and pants
      • Base Camp down jacket
      • Lightweight insulated pants (Optional)
      • Mid-weight insulated jacket
      • Softshell climbing pants
      • Lightweight fleece top and pants
      • Wind shirt (Optional)
      • Trekking/glacier shirt
      • Base layer tops and leggings
      • Underwear 5-6 pairs
      • Trekking clothes
      • Casual wear

      Head Wear

      • Warm hat
      • Sun hat
      • Balaclava (Optional)
      • Bandana and/or Buff
      • Neoprene face mask (Optional)
      • Neck Gaiter or Fleece Buff (Optional)
      • Sunglasses x 2 pairs
      • Ski goggles

      Hand Wear

      • Liner gloves x 2 pairs
      • Fleece gloves x 2 pairs
      • Mountaineering gloves with removable liners
      • Expedition mitts

      Foot Wear

      • Socks x 6 pairs
      • Lightweight shoes/sandals
      • Trekking boots
      • 8000m mountaineering boots
      • Snow gaiters
      • Down bivvy boots
      • Camp boots (Optional)
      • Foot-warming system (Optional)

      Packs & Bags

      • Small duffel bag (30-40 liters)
      • Large duffel bags ( 95-132 liters)
      • Daypack (30-45 liters)
      • Mountaineering pack (55-65 liters)

      Camping Gear

      • Down sleeping bags (-20C/-4F and -40C/-40F)
      • Foam sleeping mat
      • Inflatable sleeping mat
      • Water bottles
      • Cup, bowl, spoon
      • Small thermos flask (Optional)


      • Headlamps x 2 and spare lithium batteries
      • First aid kit and medication plus spare
      • Personal toiletries
      • Sunblock and lip balm
      • Moist wipes
      • Personal entertainment
      • Pocket knife/Leatherman/tool kit
      • Cigarette lighter
      • Camping towel
      • Camera and memory cards (Optional)
      • Earplugs (optional)
      • Chemical hand and toe warmers (Optional)
      • Stuff sacks and large plastic bags
      • Solar panel and battery pack (Optional)
      • USB flash drive
      • Steripen (Optional)
      • Collapsible trekking poles

      Climbing Equipment

      • Ice axe
      • Crampons
      • Climbing helmet
      • Climbing harness
      • Belay/rappel device
      • Locking carabiners x 3
      • Non-locking carabiners x 3
      • Mechanical ascenders x 1
      • 4m of 8mm rope or 16mm tape for jumar ropes
      • Long prusik x 1 (6mm prusik cord)
      • Avalanche transceiver

      Travel Gear

      • Airline tickets (confirmation and itinerary)
      • Nepal Visa form (can be taken from Kathmandu Airport)
      • Travel insurance policy documents
      • Valid passport
      • Copy of passport (first page only)
      • Passport size photos